Day 3: Istanbul

Islanbul adventure day 3: (just a warning, about half of this is the description of the hammam- it was such a unique experience that I felt the need to fully explain it)

While I'm sure that someone has warned me not to get lost, I proved everyone wrong.  I can get lost in any situation! Go me!  I think I got lost every time that I could possible take a different path.  Highlights of today include seeing that street eating chestnuts one last time wow going to the hamam (wow) and the Turkish Twirling Dervishes!  

I wanted to find the synagogue of the city.  I walked around for several hours and eventually gave up.  I was following my map trying to get to the correct location, but somehow I always wound somewhere else.  I did find a really nice street for shopping and I could have spent a lot more time there.  I bought some souvenirs there and also found a nice church that is supposed to be a good church to view.

I went back to the bazaar expecting the same thing but this time I found a whole new area. While last time I found the outside tourist and local parts, this time I found the inside bazaar. This was the real bazaar, the one that people talk about. It's much more like the Israeli shuk than I can describe except this part might have been even more touristy. Every stand was selling things that a local would not buy there: fancy jewelry, souvenirs, etc. I had been to the local area and knew that they would buy their stuff at other locations. I can understand how people get lost in there and walk around for days. I definitely walked around it too much but I just couldn't find a way out that was comfortable. I kept running into side alleyways or sketchy paths that I didn't want to explore. I also found some roasted chestnuts! I wanted to eat them one last time before I left the country.  They are so tasty!  I might need to figure out how to roast them myself when I get back somewhere.

In the Grand Bazaar

Hammam time!  I wasn’t originally going to go to one, but after talking to Albert about it last night, I realized it’s a really cool experience and a would be a way to insert myself into the Turkish culture rather than being a foreigner only viewing it from the outside.  After walking around for a long time, I finally had to ask for directions.  I knew I was close, but I couldn’t find the place and didn’t even know if I would be able to ask since I don’t speak the language.  I was in a local part of town without foreigners and I felt very out of place (in a good way).  I love experiencing life the way locals do and getting away from all of the touristy sides of a foreign city.  I finally found it and that’s when the experience truly began.

Me, at the Hammam

I walked in and tried to ask if I was in the right place.  Remember that no one here speaks English, so I’m trying to communicate through pantomimes.  The man at the counter asks ‘massage’ and I say yes.  I’m used to saying yes and hoping for the best.  He walks me to one side where I take off my socks and shoes and wear local sandals to the changing room where I take off everything.  I tried to ask if I was supposed to wear anything underneath the cover that they gave me and they motioned for me to take everything off.  I was expecting a little tiny cloth to cover up.  From what I read, I would be wearing something that didn’t cover anything.  A little loincloth.  I was very happy to receive a long piece of fabric which I could wrap myself in and fully covered everything and reached a length of a foot above my knees.  At this moment, I’m thinking, what am I doing?  I love getting myself into these types of situations, but really, I am not wearing any clothing and am about to get washed by some fat hairy Turkish man.  It might be better than no one speaks English.  At least this way, I may feel a little bit more comfortable with the entire situation…maybe?

I am brought to a marble slab in a giant sauna and am motioned to lay down.  I am in this beautiful sauna for I don’t know how long, but I am the sweatiest I have ever been.  I try to wipe my face but there is no part of my body that is not drenched in my own sweat.  I can see liquid emerging from my every single pore.  It was disgusting, yet cleansing.  The roof is filled with beautiful colored marble that lets the sunshine into the room.  The building looks simple from the outside, but is beautiful from the inside.  After some length of time, the big hairy Turk comes over to me and makes me roll over.  This would be my massage.  I am being massaged with my own sweat.  It’s all natural.  I think my favorite massage was the one in Thailand, but this one was still very good.  He pushed my leg into a position that I did not think it could go to.  I thought he was going to pop it out of place.  Instead, I hear a crack.  He just cracked my leg.  I didn’t know that was possible, but I sure will not be doing that again.

He then brings me to the cleaning stage.  I have my own little somewhat private area to be washed down.  He sits me down.  I still have no idea what is happening.  He slowly pours warm water over me.  Warm, hot, warm, hot.  Alternating temperatures of water.  And then he goes for the surprise of cold water.  It feels like a shock went straight through my body.  He just looks at me and laughs.  I would expect nothing more from him.  He then takes his scrubber and rubs my arms and legs and back to get all of the dirt off of me.  He scrapes the dirt away into what I’ve been told are called ‘tootsie rolls’ because it is just a glob of dead skin (much like the candy).  He does this a few times, then rubs soap throughout and washes again.  I am clean now.  After walking around for the past three days (and apparently not being clean), I am now clean.  Simultaneously, I take off the wet garment and he wraps me in a new and dry one.  I walk over to my changing room, quickly and surreptitiously snap a few photos of me, get changed, find my shoes, and leave.  Wow, what an experience that was! 

Pre Whirling Dervish:

Night Market

At night I will and see a Whirling Dervish show.  I'm excited this should be an exciting event.  I'm not too sure what will be happening other than some guys in dress spinning around.  There is some tradition to this and I'm sure that I will learn about soon enough  if I actually pay attention.  Or not.  

Post Whirling Dervish:

Well, I just came from the performance and I’m still not really sure what I saw.  There was no explanation or English, so I just relaxed and enjoyed.  Musicians sang and played their instruments while the dancers spun.  Wonderful songs.  I will have to do my own research upon them to learn about who they are and the purpose of their dance.  

The night came to an end, but I realized that I wanted to ride the ferry one last time.  I asked when the last ferry would be to make sure that I had enough time and got on the next one.  The ferry is so relaxing.  Riding on the water,having no control over the destination.  Purely relaxation.  Reached the stop and I stayed on.  I didn’t want to get off anywhere, I only wanted to see the city at night from the water’s vantage point.  I’m not sure if you are allowed to stay on but I hid a little and no one bothered to tell me otherwise.  I’m glad I did this.  If I ever go back, I might spend even more time on the ferry.  Maybe get my meal and eat it on the ferry!